Saturday, February 18, 2011 Bamboo Bungalows
I just had one of the most delightful experiences of my life. My neck has still not been completely right since my nights with the killer pillow at Payam Cottage so I wanted to make an appointment for a message. I was really hoping that Lew and I could do one together, but there was only one lady working today. I was a little apprehensive about navigating the language barrier all by myself, but figured there probably wouldn't be much conversing involved. I arrived while she was finishing with another young blonde. She tried to talk to me about "my husband (he was the one who made the appointment)" and "time" and something else that I just wasn't understanding. Fortunately the blonde looked at me and asked, "German or English?" signalling that she was about to translate for me. I was so grateful. Afterwards I asked her if she spoke Thai and she chuckled and said no, but she'd just spent the last hour communicating. Oh, I thought, how cute! She'd used this time to practice her Thai! Convinced that the awkward part would soon be over, I plopped my farang [Thai word for "foreigner"] feet into the foot bath and awaited bliss.
After a brief discussion over Thai vs. Oil massage, the massage lady started talking in broken segments about "oil," "skin," "Thai massage," "no good." I was so confused and a little uncomfortable. She kept apologizing that her "English no good," and although I was sure she wouldn't understand, I told her that I was in her country - I should be speaking Thai. It is I that feels badly." We continued to bump along through broken bits of conversation and I have to admit I was at first a little bit upset that so much chatter had permeated my relaxation. She asked me if I liked my holiday so far. I answered that I loved Thailand and the Thai people very much. "They are so happy and smile a lot. So nice," I said. She answered with a wai and "Kap koon Ka" [Thank you] and proceeded to say something that will stick with me, I hope, forever. "The Thai people, they work, work, work, not have a lot of money, but happy." So true. What a lesson. She went on to ask me questions and tell me about her son at university. She also told me how beautiful farang are when they first come here (because they are pale) then points to her skin and says "mai di [bad]" signaling the transformation to dark tan is ugly. There were times I didn't understand her and she didn't understand me and that was ok. As the hour progressed, the massage became secondary to me; getting a glimpse into this amazing woman's life and wisdom was the bigger treat. She kept thanking me for the English lesson (and even gave me an extra face massage for talking to her) but it was she that had taught me so much. We are all just people. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Happiness is yours for the taking. Challenges whether cultural, language-based or otherwise are always worthwhile. Oh, and I really love Thailand.
FOLLOW-UP ENTRY A FEW DAYS LATER:
FOLLOW-UP ENTRY A FEW DAYS LATER:
I feel at peace about making this place an integral part of our future. This experience has also taught me how much one "needs" and how much is truly "enough." I've actually come to tolerate my cold showers and am on the brink of finding them positively invigorating. Thai napkins are a tease and although very grateful to have it, their version of toilet paper is not far behind. I'm also learning that a little bit of dirt is ok. Sharing the same spoon with others is a form of fellowship. Every cube of ice and drop of clean water is precious and should never be wasted. ALWAYS apply bug spray before sunset. Never wear your sunglasses in the ocean even when it is extremely calm. It will always show you who is boss and does not return things it takes (including your most favorite pair of faux Ray-Bans). It is possible to live without power after 11pm - you do not spontaneously combust contrary to my initial belief. While the people here are very soft-spoken, the wildlife is not. Choir practice for Geckos is usually in full swing around 1:38 a.m.
